Madeira Islands

Although it is small, Madeira is rich in majestic scenery and rare beauty. Go and explore the charms and delights of this floating garden!

The main places to visit in the Madeira Islands are Funchal, the capital of the archipelago, Caniço, the east coast (Santa Cruz and Machico), the west coast (Câmara de Lobos, Ribeira Brava, Ponta do Sol and Calheta), the north coast (Porto Moniz; São Vicente and Santana) and Porto Santo.

Delight yourself with the countless views, on an island of such outstanding natural beauty!

Funchal

This town that dates back some 500 years, since 21st August 1508, owes its name to a sweet-smelling wild herb, the “Foeniculum Vulgare” traditionally known as fennel [funcho], which existed in abundance at the time of its settlement.

Funchal is the largest tourist, cultural and commercial center of the archipelago of Madeira.

This city offers a wide range of leisure activities, from visits to museums, monuments and other landmarks, to walks in its beautiful gardens, walks along the Marina of Funchal full of boats, shopping and going out at night to bars and nightclubs.

In the form of an amphitheater, the Municipality of Funchal stretches along a hillside that goes from sea level to the Pico de Areeiro, at 1 818m altitude.

The municipality of Funchal has 111,892 inhabitants spread over 10 parishes:

Imaculado Coração de Maria, Monte, Santa Luzia, Santa Maria Maior, Santo António, São Gonçalo, São Martinho, Sâo Pedro, São Roque and Sé.

Câmara de Lobos

The name of this parish comes from the fact that at the time of the discovery of the island loads of sea lions were sighted at that cove that still retains the same configuration.

Currently these animals appear only occasionally on the south coast of the island, with a colony preserved in the Desert Islands.

The main economic activities of the parish are fishing, agriculture with emphasis on banana production, trade, services and industry.

Câmara de Lobos was the first place where João Gonçalves Zarco, the navigator who discovered the island lived between 1420 and 1424.

This was the first settlement established in Madeira by João Gonçalves Zarco himself, which became parish in 1430

This land of fishermen, whose main expertise is the fishing for black scabbardfish, owes its fame to the fishermen who paint the bay with their picturesque and very distinctive boats - the Xavelhas.

The former British Prime Minister, Winston Churchill, painted this exceptional portrait when he visited the island on 8th January 1950.

The historical heritage of the village of Câmara de Lobos features the Igreja de São Sebastião, built in the sixteenth century, the chapel of Nossa Senhora da Conceição founded in the fifteenth century and rebuilt in the eighteenth century, the former convent of São Bernardino built in 1425, and the Lime Kiln integrated in tourism project in the Salinas area.

Here you can climb to the islet of Câmara de Lobos a cliff overlooking the sea that resembles an island which is home to much of the fishing population of this locality.

This space has recently been refurbished and adapted to cultural activities, with a beautiful garden, providing magnificent views of the city, the sea and the surrounding area, including Cape Girão.

Besides the parish of Câmara de Lobos, there are another four parishes that  belong to this municipality: Curral das Freiras, Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, Jardim da Serra and Quinta Grande.

Ribeira Brava

Located on the south coast of the island, the municipality of Ribeira Brava has an area of approximately 65.10 km2 with about 12,500 inhabitants.

Ribeira Brava became a town in 1928.

Its main economic activity is agriculture; from the cultivation of land comes sweet potatoes, beans, vegetables, some cereal, fruit and wine.

The Church of São Bento, built in the fifteenth century and situated in the town of Ribeira Brava, boasts beautiful panels of clear Flemish influence, representing the Virgin and the Child, São Bento and São Bernardo. São Bento is the patron saint of Ribeira Brava, for whom the inhabitants express special devotion.

On 29th of June they celebrate with one of the most sought for festivals of the island in honour of Saint Peter.

The parishes belonging to this municipality are Campanário, Ribeira Brava, Serra de Água and Tabua.

Calheta

It is thought that the origin of the name derives from the small bay or cove, which serves as its port, where Zarco entered when he intended to go ashore, because this is the meaning of Calheta.

This locality houses the Arts Centre “Casa das Mudas”, a project designed in complete harmony with the surrounding landscape, which features a wide cultural offer. “Casa das Mudas” holds exhibitions of various kinds, plays, musicals, conferences and many other events.

The municipality of Calheta has eight parishes: Arco da Calheta, Calheta, Estreito da Calheta, Fajã da Ovelha, Jardim do Mar, Paul do Mar, Ponta do Pargo and Prazeres.

Ponta do Sol

This is considered the hottest municipality of the island; it is also here where the sun shines for more hours.

Economic activity is based on the primary sector, which includes agriculture, predominantly the production of sugar cane, banana, horticulture and floriculture.

Another highlight is the traditional trade and hotels. In the municipality there is a company exporting plants.

This municipality has the Paul da Serra, which is distinguished for being the only plateau on the island of Madeira, and this at an altitude of 1,500 m.

This site has unique natural features, due to its size and location, as nuclei of indigenous vegetation, wildlife species and migratory birds. In Paul da Serra there are wind turbines that produce electricity in a non-polluting manner.

In this town you can also visit the Ponta do Sol Pier, Lagoa do Lugar de Baixo and the Subtropical Floriculture Centre.

This municipality is divided into the parishes of Ponta do Sol, Canhas and Madalena do Mar.

Porto Moniz

Porto Moniz was finally connected to the rest of the island after World War 2, when the emblematic road connecting Porto Moniz to the municipality of São Vicente was built.

This road was literally dug into the hillside, and is occasionally crossed by waterfalls that flow into the sea.

This is considered one of the most beautiful roads in wood. For safety reasons, due to falling rocks, today there are tunnels that shorten the distance, but still allow the passage through the most emblematic places along the road.

Besides Porto Moniz, three parishes make up this municipality: Achadas da Cruz, Ribeira da Janela and Seixal.

São Vicente

São Vicente is an area characterized by green nature and abundant forest, modelled by volcanic forces and erosion in its beautiful slopes.

One of the most representative symbols of the picturesque town of São Vicente is the small chapel built inside a basalt rock at the mouth of the stream that runs through the town.

Their predominant economic activity is based on the primary and tertiary sectors, particularly in agriculture and services, with emphasis on tourism.

In the heart of São Vicente one finds the Indigenous Garden, with an area of 2,200 m2, where dozens of species of local flora are represented.

The Museum Centre Rota do Cal (Lime Route) situated in this parish, is composed of a pedestrian trip that takes about 30 minutes from the quarries of limestone extraction to the museum.

From the Encumeada Belvedere, in Ribeira Brava, we have magnificent views of the mountain range that crosses Madeira and various areas of São Vicente, namely the Laurel Forest.

In the parish of São Vicente there is an extensive area of Laurel Forest.

The importance of laurel is due to both its representation in terms of diversity of species of flora and fauna and the respective state of conservation.

The Laurel Forest was classified as a Natural Heritage Site of UNESCO in 1999.

This municipality is divided into the parishes of Bonaventura, Ponta Delgada and São Vicente.

Santana

The name of this town is due to a primitive chapel dedicated to Santa 'Ana, which gave rise to the present church.

Because the municipality was inaccessible by sea and land, its inhabitants have preserved features that have not suffered outside influences.

One example that comes from this isolation is the typical architectural style of their houses with thatched roofs known as “casinhas de Santana” (little houses of Santana).

The tourism sector is currently the main economic resource of this county.

Here, you can visit the Madeira Theme Park and the Natural Reserve of Rocha do Navio.

In June 2011, the municipality of Santana received the distinction of “Biosphere Reserve” by UNESCO recognizing the richness of an ecosystem where it seeks to reconcile biodiversity conservation and sustainable use.

This reserve includes a land component, corresponding to the entire surface of the municipality above sea level and still a marine component, which presents a wide variety of natural and unique human, landscape, environmental and cultural values of local, regional, national and international interest.

In Santana, one finds Biosphere Routes that span over more than 120 km and allow visitors to enjoy the vast natural heritage, contemplate the landscaped surroundings, enjoy nature, meet the cultural richness of the places and engage with the local population.

Here you find the pedestrian trails of Vereda do Pico Ruivo, Levada do Rei and Levada do Caldeirão Verde.

Six parishes comprise this county and city: Arco de São Jorge, Faial, Ilha, Santana, São Jorge and São Roque do Faial.

Machico

It was here that Gonçalves Zarco and Tristão Vaz Teixeira disembarked, in 1419, when they discovered Madeira.

Machico became town on 2nd August 1996 and has about 20,000 inhabitants distributed among its 68 km2.

Legend has it that already a century before this discovery, Robert Machim and Anna d'Arfet had found refuge here.

The distortion of the name Machim resulted in the name of this city.

The bay of Machico invites for a walk amidst the amazing view over sea and land.

To the east of the Machico valley is the Pico de Facho Belvedere, from where you can admire the panoramic views from the peaks of the central area of the island up to the Ponta de São Lourenço.

The Banda Além beach, in the bay of Machico, is about 125 meters long and 70 meters wide.

This beach is distinguished for its yellow sand, imported from Morocco.

Five parishes make up this municipality: Água de Pena, Caniçal, Machico, Porto da Cruz and Santo António da Serra.

Santa Cruz

The origin of the name of this parish, which is now the county seat and city, resulted from of a dry tree trunk with two branches in the shape of a cross, found in the laurel forest on the south coast.

In addition to the famous Praia das Palmeiras, of rock formation and with two pools, you can find in this town a new bathing complex near Ribeira da Boaventura with swimming pools, solariums, spas and an eating area.

Between the nautical area and the pools, there is a small protected bay, which allows safe access to the sea.

For open sea lovers, there is a pier beach support near the bank at the mouth of the river.

In this locality there is a fun water park, Aquaparque, which is located next to the Ribeira da Boaventura Bathing Complex.

This infrastructure, with capacity for more than a thousand people, has five natural water slides, four fast slides, two swimming pools, one for children (Children Aqualândia).

In addition to Santa Cruz, Camacha, Caniço, Gaula and Santo António da Serra are the parishes that make up this municipality.

Porto Santo

Porto Santo is the second largest island of the Autonomous Region of Madeira, with 42.48 km² and 5 483 people.

The capital is the city of Vila Baleira. Porto Santo is also a Portuguese municipality. Located in the Atlantic Ocean, in the extreme south-west of Europe and just 500 km from the African coast and 1,000 km from Europe, you can fly in from Lisbon in a 1 ½ hour flight.

The early history of Porto Santo is still covered in the mists of time. The best known version involves a storm in 1418, catching off-guard the seafarers João Gonçalves Zarco and Tristão Vaz, sent by Henry the Navigator, who were sailing in another direction.

After countless hard days at sea, they arrived at an island that they would name Porto Santo (”Holy Harbour”).

A prior version, backed up by historical arguments, suggests that a vessel found that the island was a safe port after a violent storm.

According to this description, before the Portuguese settled on the island, it was already called Porto Santo.

This fact is supported by the so-called “Medici-Laurentian Atlas”, document dating back to circa 1370.

The island is known for its large fine yellow sandy beach, stretching close to 9 km, running along the island’s entire southern coastline, between the harbour and Calheta.

Above all, it offers peace and quiet and a catching charm, which doesn’t leave any visitor indifferent.

A particular highlight is the island’s sea water temperature; it is really warm all year round. Porto Santo’s climate is dry and stable, with little variation in warmness from season to season, therefore is usual to go to the beach throughout the year.

In terms of economic activities, due to the natural features of Porto Santo, means that agriculture is poor and therefore, most of its economy is based on trading and services.

Over recent years, there has been a boost in tourism, largely as a result of the new ferry connecting Madeira to Porto Santo, by the boat “Lobo Marinho”.

This progress has led to the construction of new hotels and restaurants, of increasingly good quality.

Porto Santo’s major cultural icon is Christopher’s Columbus House Museum, indicating the presence of America’s discoverer on the island.

The museum aims to recreate the primitive environment in which the explorer lived. Columbus’ house is, in fact, two buildings, the older of which dates back to the time when the navigator was on the island.

Aside from portraits of Columbus spanning the 16th to the 20th centuries, the exhibition also contains maps showing the different routes travelled by him.

Porto Santo Golf offers unique sporting challenges and superb views. Surrounded by serene landscapes and enveloped by sea breeze, the Porto Santo golf course boasts perfect year-round golfing conditions.

Vila Baleira, the only urban centre in Porto Santo, was given the city status on August 6th, 1996.

Porto Santo also gives name to the municipality and also to the only parish on the island.

Various points of interest from geomorphological, natural and scenic points of view can be found on the island of Porto Santo.

They are all worth a visit, as they are perfect locations for photo sessions.

Nature

One of the greatest tourist attractions of the Island of Madeira lies in its spectacular landscape.

Its luxurious vegetation continues to fascinate all those closely drawn to nature.

Laurissilva Forest

One of the greatest tourist attractions of the Island of Madeira lies in its spectacular landscape.

Its luxurious vegetation continues to fascinate all those closely drawn to nature.

This archipelago, included in the bio-geographic region of Macaronesia, retains a natural heritage of great scientific value, distinguished by UNESCO as World Natural Heritage.

Madeira's indigenous Laurissilva forest, occupying an area of 15 thousand hectares, forms part of this vast layer of vegetation that covers the island.

This ancient forest dates back to the Tertiary Era and includes very large trees amongst which is the Til, (Ocotea foetens), the Laurel-Tree, (Laurus novo canariensis) and the Brazilian Mahogany, (Persea indica).

Surrounding the trees are mosses and many other bushes, including heather and ferns.

Amongst the bird life there are rare species such as the Long-toed pigeon, (Columba trocaz) and Zino's petrel or the Madeira Freira petrel, (Pterodroma madeira).

Considered a living relic, almost all of it has been classified as part of the Madeira Nature Reserve, and is deemed a Total Preservation Area.

Madeira Nature Reserve

The Madeira Nature Reserve was created in 1982 in order to preserve a huge natural heritage, which is part of the world's heritage and includes some species in danger of extinction, as well as some high quality human habitats.

It has been classified as Bioenergetic Reserve and it contains flora and fauna unique in the whole world.

The Reserve covers a large proportion of Madeira Island (about two thirds of its territory), including areas of total and partial natural preservation, protected landscapes and leisure zones.

It includes the eastern mountainous mass, in which Pico Ruivo is most prominent and the western mountainous mass, with its extensive Paúl da Serra plateau.

It’s between 1300 to 700 metres in altitude on the south of the Island and to 200 metres in the north, where the largest area of Laurissilva Forest in Macaronesia is concentrated.

This Forest, which has been determined Natural Heritage for Humanity, occurs mainly within the area of Parque Natural da Madeira.

At the lower limit of the Laurissilva or the exotic are generally located the farming lands, with their characteristic terraces which are irrigated with water flowing from the levadas.

To the eastern extremity of the Island of Madeira arises the Promontory of São Lourenço, a peninsula of approximately 328 hectares and an average altitude of 100 metres.

Here the landscape is very distinct, more flat and arid, practically deprived of trees, but presenting several endemic plants.

On the Western part of this Natural Park, the territory includes agricultural activities and traditional livestock farming which impart special value to the landscape, making it very rural.

WORLD BIOSPHERE RESERVE - SANTANA

Santana municipality, located on the north of the Island, was honoured on June 2011 by the UNESCO with the award of “Biosphere Reserve”, recognizing the richness of an ecosystem, which strives to connect the importance of the sustainable use of biodiversity preservation.

This reserve combines both land and maritime areas which integrated in this municipality, displaying a large diversity of natural, human, landscape, cultural and environment values of local, regional, national and international interest

The rich natural ecosystem incorporates a high degree of endemic species that represents most of the significant ecological units of the island, in terms of marine and coastal varieties, and also some high altitude vegetation species, amongst which Laurissilva Forest, World Natural Heritage by UNESCO.

Fauna and Flora from Madeira

Madeira Island is very rich in fauna, both in vertebrates and in invertebrates, particularly endemic species of terrestrial molluscs, and very significantly, of insects.

In the Laurisilva, there is a small number of bird species and a high rate of endemic species. In the more inland forest areas, and in a better state of preservation, about seven species of birds are usually observed.

The symbolic trocaz pigeon( Columba trocaz) stands out. It is considered one of the oldest examples of Macaronesian birds, with a selective diet and partially dependent on the fruit of several tree species, of particular relevance being the til, and it is considered to be the sower for Laurisilva trees.

Another species of note is the bis-bis (Regulus madeirensis), a small bird, the smallest Madeiran bird, which feeds on insects, surely giving it a position of high importance at the level of the balance of the ecosystems.

The chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs madeirensis), subspecies endemic to Madeira Island is highly adapted to the island habitat.

Other birds that appear with some frequency are the Eurasian blackbirds (Turdus merula cabrerae), the robin (Erithacus rubecula rubecula), the grey wagtail (Motacilla cinerea schmitzi), and the two birds of prey, the buzzard (buteo buteo harterti) and the kestrel (Falco tinnunculus canariensis).

In the higher areas of Laurisilva forest, where large trees begin to give way to moors, the Eurasian woodcock (Scolopax rusticola) also appears. This bird is very discreet and often goes unnoticed by visitors.

With regard to the fauna in the rocky massif, Zino's petrel (Pterodroma madeira) must be highlighted.

It is one of the most endangered seabirds in the world and occurs exclusively on Madeira Island. Its conservation status is "Endangered". It lives exclusively in the sea, only coming ashore during the breeding season between late March and mid-October, when they can be heard returning to their nests at nightfall.

As for land invertebrates, the community of terrestrial arthropods is the one that has the greatest wealth of fauna, spread over a wide variety of groups.

It should also be noted that the group of Arachnids has a fairly significant presence at the level of spiders, mites and pseudo scorpions, and others.

Invertebrates are the most interesting group in Ponta de São Lourenço. At the moment, 35 species of land molluscs are known, of which 24 are endemic.

On Desembarcadouro Islet, 14 species, including 12 endemic, were identified, and there are 13 species, with 11 being endemic, on Farol Islet.

With regard to avifauna, seabirds such as Cory’s shearwater (Calonectris diomedea borealis), Bulwer's petrel (Bulweria bulwerii), the Madeiran storm petrel (Oceanodroma castro) and the common tern Sterna hirundo nest here.

One of the largest colonies of yellow-legged gulls (Larus michahellis atlantis) in the Region nests on Desembarcadouro Islet. As for land birds, Berthelot’s pipit (Anthus bertheloti bertheloti), the rock sparrow (Petronia petronia madeirensis) and the island canary (Serinus canaria canaria) are often found.

Flora

The Laurisilva Forest deserves special mention in the flora of Madeira.

This is a formation of hygrophilous characteristics, endemic to Macaronesia, well-developed with important conservation areas, the only UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site in Portugal where all the strata characteristic of this type of community is present.

Some studies within the phytosociological scope recognise various climatic plant communities that are related to the bioclimatic floors in this forest formation.

With a great diversity of flora, it is especially at the herbaceous strata level that most of the endemic species can be found.

As an example, we can take the Goodyera macrophylla, an orchid endemic to Madeira Island, known as Madeira goodyera.

The Laurisilva forest is characterised by large trees, mostly belonging to the Lauraceae family the til (Ocotea foetens), the Madeira laurel (Laurus novocanariensis), the vinhatico (Persea indica) and the barbusano (Apollonias barbujana), in addition to others, such as the (Picconia excelsa), the lily of the valley tree (Clethra arborea), the aderno (Heberdenia excelsa), the holly (Ilex perado) or the (juniper Juniperus cedrus).

Underneath the canopy of large trees, shrubs abound, including tree heather and (Erica scoparia), the Madeira blueberry (Vaccinium padifolium), (Genista tenera), the cornelian cherry (Rhamnus glandulosa), the mountain mocano (Pittosporum coriaceum and Musschia wollastonii), as well as a lower stratum, rich in ferns, mosses, lichens, liverworts and other small plants, with numerous endemic species.

On Madeira Island, bryophytes are widely distributed, occurring from the sea coast to the high mountains of the interior.

The geographical location of the island, the moderate Atlantic climate and the terrain with deep valleys and steep cliffs determine the existence of a great diversity of habitats, which allow the development and maintenance of a great wealth of flora.

Another important place in terms of flora is the rocky massif.

The plant cover in this area is characterised by the presence of several plants endemic to Madeira, examples of which are the Madeira violet Viola paradoxa.

Also found here are Madeira grey heather (Erica maderensis), the Madeiran orchid (Dactylorhiza foliosa and Anthyllis lemanniana). All these plants are perfectly adapted to the harsh climate of this area, where wide temperature ranges and high winds reign. They play a very important role in the uptake of water through hidden rainfall, in addition to contributing to fixing the soil and preventing erosion.

The flora in Ponta de São Lourenço is of equal importance.

There are currently 157 distinct vascular plants, of which 141 are on the peninsula and 71 on Desembarcadouro Islet.

Plants observed are (Mesembryanthemum crystallinum), (Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum) and (Suaeda vera), (Bassia tomentosa), sea fennel (Crithmum maritimum) and some endemic species such as: (Echium nervosum), (Mandon's chrysanthemum Argyranthemum pinnatifidum succulentum) and the (Madeira levkoje Matthiola maderensis).

There is also the rare sea heath (Frankenia laevi), as well as (Silene vulgaris marítima), (Silene behen), (Astragalus solandri and the Madeira calendula Calendula maderensis).

There are extensive spots of Trevina and several species endemic to Macaronesia and Madeira on Desembarcadouro Islet, such as: (Alpista Phalaris maderensis),(Beta patula) exclusive species to the islet, (Crepis divaricata), (minutina Plantago coronopus), sea colewort (Crambe fruticosa and Rumex bucephalophorus canariensis).

Fauna and Flora from Porto Santo

Fauna

The fauna of Porto Santo is found mainly on the Porto Santo islets, which are a prime location for nesting seabirds.

The fauna on the islets includes nesting birds such as Cory’s shearwater (Calonectris diomedea), Bulwer’s petrel (Bulweria bulwerii), the band-rumped storm petrel (Oceanodroma castro), the little seawater (Puffinus assimilis baroli), the common tern (Sterna hirundo), the yellow-legged gull (Larus cachinnans atlantis), Berthelot’s pipit (Anthus berthelotii madeirensis), the plain swift (Apus unicolor), the Atlantic canary (Serinus canaria canaria) and the rock sparrow (Petronia petronia madeirensis).

The gecko (Teira dugesii jogeri) and two tarantulas native to Porto Santo (Hogna biscoitoi and Hogna schmitzi) are also to be found.

The marine fauna is rich and diverse, largely due to the sinking of the ship ‘Madeirense’. This is a unique spot for scuba diving.

Flora

Because of its climatic and geological conditions, the flora of Porto Santo Island is found mainly on its islets, which are a favoured location for conservation of the flora of Macaronesia.

The Porto Santo islets are protected by the PDM, the Natura Network 2000 and are also part of the Madeira Natural Park.

They are rocky places, covered in shrubs and the coastal flora of Macaronesia.

Regarding the flora, shrubs and small trees can be found on the slopes here. Madeira sea stock (Matthiola madeirensis), Madeira spurge (Euphorbia piscatoria), Lotus glaucus, ice plants (Mesembryanthemum crystallinum and Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum) and marmulan (Sideroxylon mirmulans) are species worth seeing.

Lotus loweanus is a native species to Porto Santo and exists only on Cal, Ferro and Cenouras islets.

The vegetation on Cal islet is reputed to have consisted mainly of juniper and marmulan. Marmulan (Sideroxylon mirmulans) is now almost extinct but it is still the only existing native woody shrub.

Cima islet is also said to have had many Dragon Trees (Dracaena draco) and many wild olive trees (Olea maderensis).

There is also a wide variety of lichens, especially Roccella tinctoria.

Fauna and Flora from Desertas

Fauna

The Desertas Islands have many rare and endemic species, but it was the urgent need to preserve a small colony of Mediterranean monk seals, commonly known as seal monk, which originated the protection of this area.

The underwater fauna of the Desertas Islands is similar to the rest of the archipelago, with European and Mediterranean affinities, particularly at the level of fish and shellfish from the coast, such as chromis (Chromis limbata and Abudefduf luridus), golden grey mullet (Liza aurata), bogue (Boops boops), white seabream (Diplodus sp)., grouper (Serranus atricauda), parrotfish (Sparisoma cretense), barred hogfish (Bodianus scrofa), ornate wrasse (Thalassoma pavo), rock crab (Grapsus adscensionis), (Mediterranean slipper lobster Scyllarides latus).

Several species of turtles and cetaceans can be seen in the waters around these islands.

The Desertas Islands are an important centre for nesting seabirds, such as Cory’s shearwater (Calonectris diomedea borealis), the Madeiran storm petrel (Oceanodroma castro), Bulwer's petrel (Bulweria bulwerii) and Fea's (Petrel Pterodroma deserta).

All these birds are inherently vulnerable species for which the Desertas Islands represent one of the last refuges worldwide.

Deserta Grande Island has the largest colony of Bulwer's petrel (Bulweria bulwerii) in the Atlantic and possibly in the world.

The Fea's (Petrel Pterodroma deserta) nests exclusively in Bugio.

Thus, these islands play a crucial role in the conservation of these species.

As for resident birds, which are those that can be found throughout the year, stands out the Madeiran Berthelot's Pipit (Anthus bertheloti madeirensis), an endemic subspecies on the Madeira Archipelago and the Atlantic canary (Serinus canaria canaria), an endemic subspecies in Macaronesia.

Birds of prey can also be seen, in particular: the Canary Island kestrel (Falco tinnunculus canariensis), an endemic subspecies of Macaronesia, the buzzard (Buteo buteo harterti) and the barn owl (Tyto alba schmitzi), an endemic subspecies on the Madeira Archipelago.

Invertebrates are another group of animals of great interest. In the group of arthropods, of note is the wolf spider (Hogna ingens), endemic to these Islands.

This arachnid has a very restricted area of distribution, inhabiting only Vale da Castanheira, on the northern edge of the top of Deserta Grande Island.

Knowledge of the malacological fauna of these Islands is still somewhat sparse.

However, recent studies confirm the presence of about 50 species and subspecies of land molluscs on the Desertas Islands, 44 of which are endemic and some of them exclusive.

The Madeira lizard (Teira dugesii mauli) is the only terrestrial reptile that inhabits these islands, being an endemic subspecies of the Desertas Islands.

Flora

The flora of the Desertas Islands is varied, particular and rich in specific plants from Macaronesia, with Madeiran exclusives.

The vascular flora consists of about 200 indigenous and naturalised species, of which 30% are endemic to Madeira and 10% restricted to Macaronesia.

Deserta Grande Island has the greatest diversity of habitats and plants, and has three exclusive endemic species: Sinapidendron sempervivifolium, Frullania sergiae and Musschia isambertoi.

The first studies on the vegetation of the Desertas Islands date back to Lowe (1868).

Lowe defines two vegetation areas. The 1st area, called the maritime sector, goes from sea level up to 360 m, on the three islands.

This vegetation is characterised by the presence of indigenous plants such as the carrot tree Monizia eduli, the Madeira levkoje Matthiola maderensis and the Madeira calendula Calendula maderensis.

The 2nd area, called the mountain sector, goes from 300 m up to 480 m, on Deserta Grande Island and Bugio, which vegetation is characterised by the presence of indigenous plants such as Lotus argyrodes, the lowe Argyranthemum haematomma and Trifolium angustifolium.

Applying the study of plant communities and bioclimate carried out for Madeira Island (Capelo et al, 2000) to these Islands, the Desertas Islands potentially have two forest communities, Zambujal (Olea maderensis-Maytenetum umbellatae) and the Laurisilva do Barbusano (Semele androgynae-Apollonietum barbujanae).

Fauna and Flora from Selvagens

Fauna

The vertebrate fauna of the Selvagens Islands is qualified by the wide range of nesting seabirds and the absence of native mammals.

These islands are a haven for nesting seabirds as they have particular conditions that are unique in the world.

Of the nesting birds, nine species are known, including: Cory’s shearwater (Calonectris diomedea borealis), calcamar (Pelagodroma marina hypoleuca,) Bulwer's petrel (Bulweria bulwerii) Madeiran storm petrel (Oceanodroma castro) and little shearwater (Puffinus assimilis baroli).

In this area, the colony of Cory’s shearwaters appears to be of the highest density in the world.

However, the most numerous bird in these islands is the white-faced storm petrel.

The resident birds that can be found throughout the year on the Selvagens Islands are the Berthelot’s pipit (Anthus bertheloti bertheloti), a passerine whose subspecies is the same as that found on the Canary Islands but not on the archipelago of Madeira, and a small number of pairs of kestrels (falco tinnunculus canariensis), a small bird of prey whose subspecies is endemic to the Madeira Archipelago.

You can also see other birds that occasionally or accidentally visit the Selvagens Islands, especially in autumn and spring.

These are birds that get lost on the migration routes and find here, in the middle of the Atlantic, the ideal place to rest and gather strength to continue their journey.

Vertebrate species that can be found are the Selvagens gecko (Tarentola bischoffi) and the Madeira lizard (Teira dugesii selvagensis), which appear exclusively on the Selvagens Islands.

These islands are also home to a significant number of native invertebrates, with a high number of endemic insects, especially coleoptera and lepidoptera.

In terrestrial gastropods, there are currently eight species on the Selvagens Islands.

One is native to Macaronesia, (Ovatella aequalis)and one is native to the Selvagens Islands, (Theba macandrewiana).

The marine environment of these islands is characterised by its clear waters, where it has an abundant and diverse store of fauna.

Gastropods, such as periwinkles, snails, barnacles and limpets, are frequent in the rocky areas. Sea urchins are also often found, with the dominant species being the long-spined sea urchin (Diadema antillarum).

Several species of sponges, anemones and starfish cohabit along with these animals.

With regard to fish, the chromis Chromis limbata and Abudefduf luridus, golden grey mullet Liza aurata, bogue Boops boops, white seabream Diplodus sp., grouper Serranus atricauda, parrotfish Sparisoma cretense, barred hogfish Bodianus scrofa and the ornate wrasse Thalassoma pavo are frequently observed.

In the waters surrounding these islands, several species of turtles and cetaceans can be observed.

Flora

The vegetation on the Selvagens Islands is comprised of perfectly adapted species to the soil and climatic conditions.

The land flora includes more than a hundred species of vascular plants and has the highest percentage of endemic species per surface unit in the entire Macaronesia Region.

The vegetation on Selvagem Pequena Island and Fora Islet is composed only of indigenous and endemic species, with no invasive species.

These two islands have a surprising number of exclusive species and plant cover.

Selvagem Grande Island also has peculiar vegetation cover and interesting flora endemic to the island, and others common to the remaining Selvagens Islands and Macaronesia. It is also the limit of distribution of certain species in the southern or in the northern hemisphere.

The Selvagens Islands have eleven exclusive endemic plants, which include Madeira squill Autonoe madeirensis, Argyranthemum thalassophilum, Lobularia canariensis ssp. rosula–venti, Lotus salvagensis, Monanthes lowei and Selvagens spurge Euphorbia anachoreta

In order to preserve this natural heritage, in 2001 eradication work began on invasive plants, i.e. plants that are not part of the indigenous flora of the area and that spread very easily, competing with and destroying the natural habitats of the indigenous species.

Examples of species that are being monitored and controlled are wild tobacco Nicotiana glauca and more recently, Conyza bonariensis.

The marine flora on the Selvagens Islands shows similarities to the neighbouring archipelagos.

The irregularity of the sea beds and the predominance of rocky substrates is propitious to colonisation by photophilic algae.

Studies indicate the presence of 173 species of macro algae, are predominantly red algae.

Nature Reserves

Ilhas Desertas Nature Reserve

The Ilhas Desertas (total area of 1 421 hectares) include the Ilhéu Chão, Deserta Grande and Bugio.

They are at about 22 miles to the southeast of the town of Funchal.

The islands constitute the last refuge of the monk seal named MonachusMonachus.

The presence of these mammals led the Regional Government of Madeira to create the protected area of Ilhas Desertas in 1990.

In 1992 the European Council classified these islands as Bioenergetics Reserve.

It is important to mention that the total ban of scuba fishing in this reserve.

Advance permission from the park authorities is also needed before any vessel can anchor or visit Deserta Grande Island.

No boats are allowed to sail through the southern part of the reserve.

Ilhas Selvagens Nature Reserve

The Selvagens islands include two groups of small islands.

Most notable of these are Selvagem Grande, Selvagem Pequena and Ilhéu de Fora.

They are about 180 miles from Madeira Island and form the southernmost territory belonging to Portugal.

Ilhas Selvagens Nature Reserve was created in 1971 and is one of the oldest in Portugal.

Today, it’s the only Portuguese reserve formally classified as such by the EC.

The flora of the Selvagens Islands at its most impressive on Selvagem Pequena and Ilhéu de Fora; here grazing animals have never been introduced.

Amongst the ninety species that make up the plant heritage of the Selvagens Islands, ten are endemic.

Because of the favourable nesting conditions for seabirds, these islands are also known as bird sanctuaries.

Garajau Pacial Nature Reserve

This reserve, created in 1986, is on the south coast of Madeira Island, at the extreme east of Funchal Bay.

It is a marine park that includes a strip running from the high tide line and into the sea to a depth of 50 metres.

Amongst the fauna of this park are larger fish such as the (Epinephelus guaza) "mero" in Portuguese and also a variety of other coastal species.

Groups of Atlantic manta rays (manta birostris) can be seen here every year.

Their size and graceful movement has transformed the area into an international attraction.

Any fishing activity is forbidden inside the park. Navigation is also highly controlled.

Only small boats are allowed to approach the beaches. There is infrastructure and support for scubadiving.

Rocha do Navio Nature Reserve

This area falls under the administration of Santana, and was the last park to be created in 1997.

It was established in response to demands from the local population and includes a strip of sea, a potential habitat for sea wolf and a small island on which one can see rare plants that inhabit the cliff habitats of Macaronesia.

There is open access by boat, but underwater fishing and the use of fishing nets are forbidden.

The "Rocha do Navio Nature Reserve" site has total area of 1710 hectares and total length of 6259 meters.

It is exclusively marine, including the islets of "Ilhéu da Rocha das Vinhas" and "Ilhéu da Viúva".

This Reserve is integrated in the Natura 2000 Network.

It is located on the north coast of Madeira Island, in the Municipality of Santana. The main access is made through the Belvedere of "Rocha do Navio", along a path sculpted on the rock or by telepheric.

The name "Rocha do Navio" comes from the wreckage of a Dutch schooner in the 19th century, as a result of strong winds.

Porto Santo Network of Protected Marine Areas

The Porto Santo Network of Protected Marine Areas comprises the areas of the six islets around the island of Porto Santo, namely, the islets of Cenouras, Baixo or Cal, Cima or Dragoeiros, also known nowadays as Farol, Fora or Rocha do Nordeste, Fonte da Areia and Ferro, and the marine area surrounding the islets of Cal and Cima, including the spot where the shipwreck of O Madeirense lies.

All surface areas of the six islets are a Special Conservation Area, part of the Natura 2000 network.

The islets, in spite of their inhospitable appearance, hold a natural heritage that demands conservation, for their scientific and natural important features, as well as, outstanding landscape.

The shoreline vegetation displays important examples of the coastal flora of Macaronesia.

They are also favoured locations for sea birds to nest.

There is abundant and varied sea fauna, in part due to the shipwreck of O Madeirense, which has become an excellent location for diving.

Volcanism in the Madeira Islands

The Madeira Islands are an example of hotspot volcanism in an oceanic environment and arose from the action of two mantle plumes.

One created Porto Santo during the Middle Miocene, around 14 million years ago (Mya), and later Madeira and the Desertas Islands during the Late Miocene, around 7 Mya.

The other originated the Selvagens Islands during the Oligocene, around 28 Mya.

The island of Madeira rises up from a vast underwater plain, within the African Plate, forming a volcanic massif more than 5.5 km high, of which only 1/3 comes above the water.

The island evolved over successive stages of intense volcanic activity (early stage ≥ 7 Mya, middle stage 7 to 1.8 Mya and late stage < 1.8 Mya), separated by periods of very little activity or no activity at all.

During these periods, erosion reduced the size of the volcanic structure, at times considerably.

The erosion processes consisted mostly of fluvial erosion, marine abrasion (coastline retreat and the creation of cliffs), and gravity processes (landslips and landslides) that were triggered by the steep relief created by the previous processes.

The periods of intense erosion carved valleys into the landscape and created uneven terrain that partially or totally destroyed the volcanic forms, while the products of the erosion were deposited on the underwater flanks of the great volcano or in the valleys.

When activity started again, during the following volcanic period, it led to fossilisation of the sedimentary residue material and the eroded terrain.

The most recent volcanic structure in the stratigraphy of the island of Madeira, which was formed until 6000-7000 years ago, represents the rejuvenation stage and is characterised by volcanism acting on an eroded topography, carved into the forms created during the previous stage.

It is believed that Madeira is still in this stage of evolution, and volcanic activity is temporarily dormant.

Although low, the risk of a volcanic eruption in Madeira is not non-existent.

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