In the
interior of the country, there are mountains and villages of granite and
schist.
By the sea, fishing villages and cosmopolitan beaches with water sports
set the pace of the day. And everywhere centuries old heritage proudly
displays the history of the region.
Some of these places are so important for humanity that they have been
included in the UNESCO list of world heritage.
This is the case of the Monasteries of Alcobaça and Batalha, the Convent
of Christ in Tomar and Coimbra University.
But there are other unique features that are well worth discovering. For
example, the historic villages and castles that defended the nation's
borders.
The Schist Villages and the towns of whitewashed houses, like Óbidos, a
treasure within walls.
The cities, where modernity is combined with tradition – Coimbra, the
university city, Aveiro between the Ria and the sea, and Viseu, Guarda
and Castelo Branco, in which the stone architecture retains traces of an
immemorial past.
Serra da Estrela, the highest peak in mainland Portugal, is the star of
the mountains, with its endless landscapes and glacial lagoons.
But there are also the Lousã, Açor and Caramulo ranges, where you can
discover nature by hiking or by bike.
Here you can also try rock climbing, abseiling, rafting or canoeing, for
example in the Naturtejo Geopark, a preserved area where several species
of birds and animals live.
The crystal clear waters that rise from the thermal springs balance the
body and soul.
And the beaches! River beaches surrounded by forests and coastal beaches
open to the Atlantic ocean, provide certain freshness on hot summer
days.
They are also well known spots for surfers from around the world, who
come for the perfect waves in Peniche, and even the giant waves in
Nazaré.
There are flavours for every palate to comfort the stomach: cheese and
sausages, bouillabaisses and roast suckling pig, honey and convent
sweets; and for raising the spirits, you can rely on the excellent wines
from the demarcated regions.
They are all the product of the know-how of the people, who are
genuinely welcoming in receiving their visitors with the best they have
to offer.
Coimbra
On the banks of the river Mondego, Coimbra is famous for its University,
the oldest in Portugal and one of the oldest in Europe, which over time
has shaped its image to become "the city of students".
We begin this visit, precisely at the university founded in the XIIIth
Century and which UNESCO has placed on its list of World Heritage sites,
in a classification that also includes Rua da Sofia and the upper part
of the city.
It's well worth climbing its tower, which houses the bells that signal
the start and end of classes, in order to appreciate the superb 360º
view of Coimbra.
But there is much to see at ground level, too: the Pátio das Escolas
courtyard, the Sala dos Capelos hall where the most important ceremonies
are held, the Chapel of São Miguel with an imposing Baroque organ and
the Joanine Library, which has more than 300,000 works dating from the
16th to the 18th centuries arranged in beautiful gilt-covered bookcases.
The buildings occupy the place of the Palace where the first Kings of
Portugal lived, when they made the city the capital of the kingdom.
There are several monuments from those times that display the splendour
of Romanesque art. In the shopping area and area of historic cafés in
the City Centre, visitors really must see the Monastery of Santa Cruz,
which houses the tomb of the first King of Portugal, Afonso Henriques,
and on the other bank, the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha, recovered
and rescued from the waters of the river that invaded it over the
centuries.
The Sé Velha (Old Cathedral), too, on whose steps the
monumental serenade takes place in which students dressed in black capes
sing the Coimbra Fado with heartfelt emotion.
This is one of the events in the Queima das Fitas ritual (Burning of the
Ribbons) every May, in which newly graduated students celebrate the
completion of their course, at a very colourful party.
This liveliness is felt throughout the year, however, in the many pubs,
restaurants and “Repúblicas” (student residences), examples of community
life.
Fátima
The location of the Shrine of Fátima, at Cova da Iria, had until 1917
been an unknown place in the municipality of Ourém, in the parish of
Fátima.
That year, a religious event changed its history and importance for
ever, when three little shepherds, Jacinta and her two cousins,
Francisco and Lúcia, witnessed successive apparitions of Our Lady of the
Rosary.
Initially looked at with suspicion by the Church, albeit
cherished by the people, the phenomenon was not acknowledged by the
Bishop of Leiria until 1930.
From then onwards, the development of the village boomed, leading to
Fátima being given town status, in 1977, and city status in 1997.
The world renown of the Shrine increased during the papacy of John Paul
II, a confessed devotee of Our Lady of Fátima, who travelled there in
1982 to give thanks for having survived an assassination attempt the
year before. In 2000, on his third visit to the site, he announced the
beatification of Jacinta and Francisco, to whom the Vatican attributed
the miracle of a cure.
Óbidos
To the north of Lisbon, with good access from the capital, you can enjoy
the invigorating Atlantic air while swinging away at one of the Western
region’s golf courses.
You can practise your different game strategies by the sea and sand
dunes or amid a pine and acacia setting.
Praia d’El Rey, by the sea, with a view over the Berlengas Islands, was
considered the seventh best European course by Golf World Magazine.
It includes two different kinds of landscape: the first holes are
located within a pine grove and the rest run along the beach.
This is a course where perspectives and challenges change every day,
whether because of the changing strength of the wind or the new hues
that the landscape adopts.
It combines perfectly with the neighbouring Bom Sucesso and Royal Obidos
courses.
The Bom Sucesso Golf Course offers a contemporary design and an
extremely challenging layout designed by Donald Steel, with a view over
the sea and the Óbidos Lagoon.
The Royal Obidos provides golfers with a unique game experience on a
course designed by Severiano Ballesteros for players of all levels.
In addition to these major challenges, the west coast also boasts the
Botado Golf Club, in Peniche, and the Campo Real Course near Torres
Vedras.
In between games, there are many attractions in the surroundings that
warrant a tour, whether to visit the mediaeval town of Óbidos or to go
for a dive at the excellent beaches of Santa Cruz, Porto Novo, Areia
Branca and Baleal.
And, being so close to the ocean, you must taste the grilled fresh fish,
straight from the sea.
Aveiro
Aveiro, next to the sea and the ria (estuary), is crossed by a network
of channels through which moliceiros (local boats) meander.
These slim, colourful vessels used to be used to collect algae and
seaweed, and today are for sightseeing trips. Visiting on foot does not
mean too much effort either since the city is flat, and anyone who
enjoys cycling can take a "BUGA" - bicycles made freely available by
Aveiro City Council.
Aveiro has a number of buildings in Art Nouveau style that are worth
seeing.
Many are situated along the main channel, but there are some off the
beaten track and in other locations.
The location of the buildings is indicated in a guide available at the
Tourist Office and you can get to know this style even better in the
Museum dedicated to it.
Another important place to visit is the Aveiro Museum in the Convent of
Jesus, where you can admire the Mausoleum of Princess Saint Joana and
the gilded woodcarvings that decorate the interior of the church.
These are to be found in abundance in the chapel of Senhor das Barrocas
and with less exuberance in the Misericordia Church, whose mannerist
portal deserves mention.
Those who appreciate contemporary Portuguese architecture should not
miss the University buildings.
Viseu
An ancient city, built of grey stone but at the same time green, lively
and welcoming, Viseu was considered the best of Portugal in the quality
of life ranking.
There’s nothing like starting in the preserved historic centre for
getting to know Viseu.
Several narrow streets with traditional shops spread out in a mediaeval
layout from Rossio.
It’s well worth a browse through them, and discovering Rua Direita and
Rua Escura with their 16th century houses which retain gargoyles and
Gothic windows, and Quatro Esquinas (Four Corners) where one of the city
gates once stood.
The Cathedral churchyard Adro da Sé is a focal point of any visit. Here
granite predominates in an imposing group formed by the Três Escalões
Palace, which houses the Grão Vasco Museum, the Cathedral, the Canons’
balcony and the Keep; opposite, the equally majestic Misericórdia
Church, with its rocaille façade, introduces a cheerful note to the
sobriety of the square.
It’s certainly worth spending some time here, but we would highlight the
Cathedral dome ornamented with Manueline style ropes and knots in stone,
and the treasures stored in the Treasury Museum, as well as works by
Vasco Fernandes (Grão Vasco) a Portuguese painter form the 15th century,
in the Museum named after him.
Guarda
The fresh, healthy mountain air in Portugal’s highest city flows through
the mediaeval streets to which the granite lends nobility and a dark
colour.
This is the colour of the Cathedral. Tall, huge and imposing, it has the
appearance of a fortress with mighty towers rising as a symbol of the
defence of faith and the territory.
And if the exterior impresses us by its inspired design and Gothic
decoration, the interior is surprising for the overwhelming height of
the naves and an enormous altarpiece carved in stone.
Outside in the square, the 16th century arcades house cafés where you
can rest and watch the pulsating heart of the city.
Narrow streets radiate from here, with granite palaces and old houses
with Gothic windows and gargoyles in the eaves.
The entire historical centre is protected by walls, gates and mediaeval
towers that have lasted to the present day almost intact.
Next to the walls lies the Judiaria (Jewish Quarter). Most of the
buildings date from the Middle Ages, preserving symbols carved in stone
and the original architecture with two doors - a narrow one to access
the family living space on the upper floor, another wider door to the
shop on the ground floor, since most of the Jews were tradesmen.
Castelo Branco
Not too big, not too small, Castelo Branco is a town on a human scale
that is well worth knowing. We give some suggestions, but discovering it
should be done at your own pace, exploring nooks and crannies that are
not always encountered by tourists.
The visit starts in the Cathedral (or Church of São Miguel) and
continues to the Francisco Tavares Proença Junior Museum.
Here you can
admire the Castelo Branco linen quilts, hand embroidered in
many-coloured silk threads that demonstrate the skill of the artisans of
the region.
The Museum is housed in the former Bishop's Palace, whose Gardens are
the pride of the city.
In a Baroque style, they combine fountains, lakes and waterfalls, but
are mostly known for the statues of the Kings of Portugal adorning the
steps.
And when you look more closely you will notice that three are smaller
than the others... they represent the Spanish Kings who ruled the
country between 1580 and 1640. An ironic way to assert our independence!
Across the street, the former kitchen gardens of the Palace are now the
City Park, a leisure space that besides the water fountains and
reflecting pools, retains vegetable and herb gardens that recall its
former purpose.
Nearby is the Museum of Sacred Art in the Graça Convent, another visit
not to be missed.
Leiria
In the Beiras regions, all roads seem to lead to Leiria from surrounding
tourist favourites such as Coimbra, Alcobaça, Fatima and Batalha, with
its outstanding monastery.
However, beyond being the geographical hub, Leiria has its own charms.
Built on the hills and flatlands that flank the River Lis, its old
quarter and ancient monuments make it a worthy visit, even if the more
modern sections are quite industrial.
Furthermore, the wealth of artisan products found throughout the
surrounding countryside make Leiria a centre for such wares.
Leiria Castle is the towns focus point, standing proud on the hill
rising out of this graceful town.
Rebuilt numerous times following Moorish attack, in times which saw this
town mark the southern limits of the medieval Portuguese Kingdom, the
well restored remains were mainly built in the 14th century as a summer
residence for Dom Dinis and Queen Isabel of Aragon.
Later King João I would add the Gothic features also seen today.
Dom Dinis, the poet king, is further credited with the planting of the
vast expanses of pine forest which blanket the surrounding area, known
as the Pinhal do Rei.
His motivation was twofold: to control the sands
which moved evermore inland and to provide quality timber for the
building of ships.
These ships would in due course undertake the perilous journeys of
discovery for which Portugal is famous.
In the much-loved cobbled centre of the town, arcaded buildings and
archways share the streets with a 12th century church of São Pedro and a
Cathedral which houses the local archaeological museum and some 17th
century artwork around the altar.
These ancient streets, and their central Rodrigues Lobo square, also
house numerous shops selling the crafts for which the local area is
famed, particularly glasswork.
Factories in nearby Marinha Grande have
been producing traditionally made crystal-ware for centuries and it
remains one of Portugal’s main and most prestigious manufacturers of its
kind.
The nearby coast boasts typical Atlantic surf and sandy beaches, the
most popular resort being São Pedro de Moel.
This small cliffside town has its own ramparts and ancient quarter
besides all the modern trapping of a holiday resort.
